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The Chatterbox => Computing => Topic started by: vladgd on February 26, 2019, 10:55:49 PM
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Kinda been off the desktop due to back pain reasons, would like to get back into things. Looking into both a laptop, and later ( probably after I get the money for a new hdtv In the later future) a living room desktop set up.
Been procrastinating learning how to code too long, when I get a machine, I'll get to work.
Doing some basic looking this (https://www.amazon.com/Acer-SF315-41G-R6MP-Display-Graphics-Windows/dp/B078BC1YL2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=acer%2Bswift%2B3&qid=1551224312&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&th=1) might be promising. Really don't want to spend $800+ so any feedback would be nice.
Obviously I'd like to play games, but I ain't really a AAA gamer, most of my gaming is console. PC side would be for those PC only things like wow classic, and...? Probably the Warcraft 3 remaster.
Having a portable machine I can just open in my recliner would drastically get me to learn coding, and I think it's a solid reason to look at that over a desktop for right now.
I'm aware it's not optimal, but my new place is the living room in a nice back friendly recliner, not a computer room desk.
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Looks like a decent little machine to me. Not sure how the GPU performance is on the mobile Ryzen chips, but considering the dinky Skylake Intel HD GPU in my Dell can handle WoW at 1080p/medium with no problem I think you'll be fine.
I generally recommend at least 16GB of RAM, but 8 should be alright. It looks like you can bump that laptop up to 16 if you need to down the road (some assembly required, I'd wager) so I wouldn't consider that a deal breaker.
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Looking more at that machine, no upgradable ram...
Thinking more about what I want to do...I am a wee bit worried that if something breaks on a laptop, it'll be harder to just replace something than if I had a desktop.
May mock up a desktop machine (and figure how the hell I'll get a living room setup) before I spend any cash.
I love the idea of a laptop, it's a simpler solution, but probably more risky/costly. Will update when I draft parts.
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"No upgradable RAM" as in they solder the RAM onto the board, or because they don't have any easily accessible slots available? My mom's laptop doesn't have any "user-replaceable" parts, but I was able to just unscrew the bottom of it and replace the slow HDD in favor of an SSD, and it also has exposed RAM slots.
If they solder the RAM on a standard size laptop like that, they're mad. I understand soldering to a certain extent with ultrathins and tablets in order to reduce the weight and footprint, but sheesh.
Re: desktops. I'm currently using a desktop PC hooked up to my TV and it's been pretty nice. If you go with a wireless keyboard/mouse (Logitech has some nice gaming grade ones) you won't have to worry about running wires. If you end up going wired, bundling your keyboard and mouse cords together with velcro or zip ties every six inches or so should keep everything together nicely. If you get a Bluetooth transceiver (some motherboards include a laptop-style wi-fi/Bluetooth module onboard nowadays, or at least have a mini PCI-e slot for one) you can even pair up wireless controllers with little to no additional setup.
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Figure I'll update this thing. Set on a living room desktop setup, going to figure out logistics later, but brainstorming parts atm.
Video card
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078VCBGPV/?coliid=I16Z6WIF6BD5DM&colid=3CLVULCML3QQF&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071CD6K6Z/?coliid=I3I8BJJSFDQSU&colid=3CLVULCML3QQF&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MC23VS4/?coliid=I2UD30X4JTV8H&colid=3CLVULCML3QQF&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M5BQRIO/?coliid=I31ON2TLV8AHD0&colid=3CLVULCML3QQF&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
Would prefer not to spend over $200 on a card, but if what's good is more, I might splurge on more. I am not doing VR, and I have no current intent to do 4k, so I doubt I need too much.
HDD
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FJRS6FU/?coliid=I2LFURL8C1XFRJ&colid=3CLVULCML3QQF&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
Don't need anything fancy because I want to run a primary SSD with HDD as storage setup, Western Digital has been good to me and I trust the brand, but still not sure what exact drive to get.
SSD
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07M7Q21N7/?coliid=I1O4WFYDOVFZ9U&colid=3CLVULCML3QQF&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
SSD's are a lot cheaper than I remember, I currently run a 130gig, but a 500 gig would be fantastic primary drive with a few games.
PSU
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N18J52E/?coliid=I33M37YKNG08RA&colid=3CLVULCML3QQF&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
Will look around , not super picky on this part, but I do like modular. May be the last part I decide on, because I really only need to make sure it fits in the case (which wont be an issue) and has the connections "I need.
Case
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9JPSEU/?coliid=I342V9TWNNY032&colid=3CLVULCML3QQF&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DRVHBWK/?coliid=I1WWPOUIRRKKZZ&colid=3CLVULCML3QQF&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
I love full tower cases, but since I'm going living room, and have a nosey cat, maybe a mid tower? I might save money that way, but again, I aint great at building, and a big case makes for great cooling, quiet, and easy to build in.
For example the last TWO machines I built used older versions of the cooler master HAF (https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-HAF-Computer-RC-942-KKN1/dp/B003S68Q0Y/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=cooler+master+haf&qid=1553653454&s=electronics&sr=1-6) case. Which I am going to prefer by default, but if another case can change my mind, I am all ears.
MOBO
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0775JBB87/?coliid=I2TQXVRDPWDHWJ&colid=3CLVULCML3QQF&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
Obviously depends on CPU, so part is mostly placeholder
CPU
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0759FGJ3Q/?coliid=I7RC8FT97PR53&colid=3CLVULCML3QQF&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
I have no bias on AMD or Intel, I have used both. Only factor is bang for my buck at the time of my build, so this one is also higly open to change. I don't like to spend too much more than $220, so that's what I typically work with.
RAM
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075TQS5QP/?coliid=I3TAYAC9PP2FRV&colid=3CLVULCML3QQF&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006EWUO22/?coliid=I3LT2ZDEQUS97W&colid=3CLVULCML3QQF&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
Cheaper than I remember, but not too picky, I just need 16gb of something decent.
I wanna say that's everything? Making this post to consolidate everything and fine tune my parts to hopefully get something built in a month.
Having a living room work machine would be great, also catching up on some pc gaming is exciting...and..."cough" wow classic, warcraft 3 reforged "cough"
Any recommendations please let me know, I typically allow myself a lot of time to finetune parts because it'll be a machine I use for easily over 5 years.
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Gonna hack away at your post and leave the links of the parts I recommend. :)
Figure I'll update this thing. Set on a living room desktop setup, going to figure out logistics later, but brainstorming parts atm.
Video card
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MC23VS4/?coliid=I2UD30X4JTV8H&colid=3CLVULCML3QQF&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
This is a bit of a tentative recommendation, as I'm really not too familiar with AMD's GPU line. About all I do know about it is that my laptop has an AMD dedicated GPU and somehow their drivers are somehow even more awful than they used to be. The real kicker is that my laptop has a FirePro (their workstation line) and the drivers for those are supposed to be more stable. Yeah, not so much. It's not a bad performer for what it is (dunno about the ones you linked) but the Catalyst Control Center is such an awful piece of software that I wouldn't even consider purchasing hardware from them until they ditch it altogether.
I would definitely say that the 2060 would be a better prospect than the 1050 Ti. There was a pretty good performance bump between this generation and the last, so that would buy you a bit more time until your next GPU upgrade.
If you can find a used 1080 Ti at a reasonable price, that would be a very good option. A lot of those were dumped on eBay when the 2080 Ti came out, courtesy of people who decided to upgrade before third-party benchmarks were even released. Some of them were obviously pulled from cryptocoin mining rigs, but you can generally tell the gaming and mining focused cards apart based on the lot size.
HDD
SSD
This one's kinda tricky. Depending on what you want to do, 1TB isn't going to get you very far. For games that need a lot of storage (like FFXV) the load times would get pretty outrageous on a hard drive, too.
What I would do is go with a 1TB NVMe SSD (https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-970-EVO-Plus-MZ-V7S1T0B/dp/B07MFZY2F2/) and, when that starts to fill up, pick another one (or two) up. It'll be a bit more money up front for less storage, but I guarantee you'll be a lot happier with it.
When I built my current system I ended up putting three 500GB 960 EVOs in it and ended up running out of space surprisingly quickly. The problem was that because I didn't have any available slots my only upgrade option was to do an expensive replacement. In my case I was able to upgrade my laptop with one of the old 500GB sticks, but you're not going to have the option to do something like that.
I would only recommend an HDD nowadays if you have a lot of data and you don't need to access it very quickly. Even a relatively cheap SATA SSD (I upgraded the 1TB HDD in my laptop to a 1TB 870 EVO for ~$130) is generally going to be a better option.
PSU
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N18J52E/?coliid=I33M37YKNG08RA&colid=3CLVULCML3QQF&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
Looks good to me! I'm running a Corsair semi-modular PSU in my current rig, actually. :)
Case
Obviously this is largely personal preference. I will say that mid-towers nowadays are a lot easier to fiddle with than the ones from 10 years ago, but they're never going to be as versatile as a full tower.
I notice that the ones you linked have tempered glass sides. Those are wonderful and handle case lighting very nicely (my current tower is basically a metal shell with tempered glass on all sides) but bear in mind that they do add quite a bit of weight. Totally worth it, IMO.
MOBO
CPU
Sticking with the $220 budget, I'd either go with the Ryzen 5 2600X (https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Ryzen-Processor-Wraith-Cooler/dp/B07B428V2L/) ($190; fewer cores, better performance per-core) or the Ryzen 7 2700 (https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Ryzen-Processor-Wraith-Cooler/dp/B07B41717Z/) ($220; more cores, slightly worse performance per-core). Get the former if you mostly plan to game, get the latter if you plan to stream.
If you don't mind spending a bit more money up-front, the Ryzen 7 2700X (https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Ryzen-Processor-Wraith-Cooler/dp/B07B428M7F/) costs $290 and will beat both of those in anything you throw at it.
As far as the motherboard is concerned, the ASUS ROG Strix B450-F (https://www.amazon.com/ROG-Strix-B450-F-Gaming-Motherboard/dp/B07FKTZC4M/) looks like a solid choice. I've been hearing not-so-good thing sabout Gigabyte's QC process lately, and I can't say that I'm really blown away by my ASRock (it sure surprised me, but not exactly in a particularly good way), so ASUS it is!
RAM
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075TQS5QP/?coliid=I3TAYAC9PP2FRV&colid=3CLVULCML3QQF&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006EWUO22/?coliid=I3LT2ZDEQUS97W&colid=3CLVULCML3QQF&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
Cheaper than I remember, but not too picky, I just need 16gb of something decent.
Both of those look solid, but I'd go with the latter simply because the order would actually be fulfilled by Amazon. My experience with third-party sellers hasn't been the greatest (read: I'm spoiled by Prime).
I wanna say that's everything? Making this post to consolidate everything and fine tune my parts to hopefully get something built in a month.
The only additional thing you may want to consider is some sort of optical drive, but those are becoming increasingly irrelevant nowadays.
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lol optical drive.
daemon tools and usb sticks/sd card readers have effectively made optical drives obsolete. Well, that and reasonable internet speeds.
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Yeah, but discs didn't just suddenly go away as a result of that. I still use them a fair amount (recently installed Diablo 1 from CD--why rebuy it if I don't have to?), though I've switched to just using a single USB optical drive for convenience sake.
Besides, you have to be able to feed Daemon Tools (or Windows 8/8.1/10, for that matter--its ISO reader seems to work pretty well for basic stuff) with an image, and nowadays it's far safer to just rip your own disc rather than torrenting it. Last time I torrented an old game to save myself the trouble of ripping it I ended up getting a nastygram in the mail from my ISP…sigh.
I've also been trying to image and back up my old DOS games, since I don't want to be the victim of disc rot (I have a retro PC, so I can still play DOS/Win9X titles natively).
Also: Tool doesn't do digital distribution and their fifth album is due to come out this year. How else am I going to rip that? :P
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'Scuse the absense, not a lot of free time now a days.
Anywho, thinking of ordering in 2-3 batches to make the wallet sting less.
First batch being case, mobo, cpu, aftermarket heatsink, and...maybe a psu, though I could probably delay the cpu. Figure the first order would be the most annoying stuff (installing the cpu and aftermarket heatsink) first. Then the second order would be plugging in power/plugging in components.
Looking at that mobo you recommended, and I get scared really fast when multiple people say there's bugs with the thing, so I'm a little sketch on the one you recommended. Might look around a little bit, I am usually hesitant before purchasing any given part on a machine I'll likely use over 5 years. Anything in particular I should be looking for/be warry of?
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You really have to take negative component reviews with a grain of salt, because nine times out of ten it's someone who 1) straight up broke the thing, 2) refuses to RMA a board that's dead out of the box, 3) overclock the shit out of their components and wonder why they're running into stability issues, or 4) didn't read the manual. Also, consider the fact that people are generally more likely to leave a review if they run into issues. Seeing a 4.1/5.0 star review for a piece of hardware is actually really good. Plus, I know at least half a dozen people who have been running a variety of different ASUS boards for years with zero issues (myself included--my current system is using an ASRock board and I'm planning on replacing it with an ASUS ROG Strix board within a year due to some Linux-related issues I've experienced with the ASRock piece).
One of my friends also reported smooth sailing with their MSI board, so they seem to be another decent choice. I don't really have a huge sample set to pull from, though.
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Point made. One of those things I only build a PC every 5-6 years, so I want the fucker to last. I know I've bought parts that a lot of people sketch on, and I have no issues, and vice versa.
No idea what I'm looking for so ill try and get the case, CPU, Mobo, heat sink ordered on my time off. No rush to get this thing made besides classic wow and programming anyway.
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Just don't do what I did with my current build. I figured I'd build my rig in pieces, so I ordered the PSU and...well, it just sort of sat in my basement for about eight months. :P
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650 watt psu good enough or do I need more? Used to buy a psu based on GPU needs, but I honestly don't know all that much about this stuff.
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Yep, 650W will be fine for what we specced out and will give you a bit of wiggle room if you want to upgrade down the road. More than anything else, make sure that it's from a decent manufacturer. That alone could save you plenty of heartache down the road.
To elaborate on that a bit: I had a power supply failure a few years ago (on raid night, too...go figure). Pressed the power button, fans started to spin up, then the system immediately shut down. The power supply had worn out to the point where it couldn't fire up the system and shut down to protect the components.
In addition to simply not being capable of holding consistent voltages, cheaper power supplies tend to lack protection circuitry. If they wear out they'll still try to provide the same amount of power. As a result they'll overheat and ultimately suffer catastrophic failure and, nine times out of ten, take something else with them. I saw one system where a cheap PSU suffered this kind of failure and pushed mains power to a hard drive. Not only did it blow out several chips but it got the HDD hot enough to melt the Molex connector into the slot.
tl;dr 650W is fine, just make sure it's not a cheap PSU. Corsair is a great choice.
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With my games finished, I kinda wanna get this thing built within the month.
I did snag a 650w corsair PSU, samsung 500gig ssd, and some thermal paste. Intending to use stock heat sink for the ryzen since I ain't going to OC, and all of the feedback confirms it's a good heatsink for running that thing at stock settings. Only issue is it has pre applied paste, so I read you can clean it off with some iso alcohol, so I got some of that, but haven't put the time into actually removing it yet. Will get done before I install.
Things I'm missing.
HDD, going to nab a WD black 1tb, shouldn't be an issue
Multi card reader, don't need one, but would be nice to have. Link (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NBTPGBL/?coliid=I2BIFHJW2W5D7I&colid=3CLVULCML3QQF&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it)
Optical Media Drive, thinking of gutting the dvd drive off my current machine, or getting a shiny new blu ray, undecided yet
Ram, could take the 16 gigs from my current machine, buy new ram? or get 32 gigs which could be stupid overkill, not sure
GPU, pretty lost on this one, under $300 would be nice unless I can see reason to spend more, in that case under $400 might be doable
OS, I just buy win10 from amazon and its easy peazy? or is there a better way? I see some for $85, and some for $100, but they say the same win10 home OEM. I don't quite understand. Should a user like myself even consider pro?
Givin my energy and motivation (tired physically from work and being ill) I would like to nail all of this down and have it ordered within the week. Kinda have the hankerin to play final fantasy 14 for some reason...and It may take some doing to figure out a good physical setup for my living room after this machine is built, requiring more time and $$$, so I aughta get this fucker built already.
Input for the uneducated plz :)
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Optical Media Drive, thinking of gutting the dvd drive off my current machine, or getting a shiny new blu ray, undecided yet
If you intend on using the system to watch and/or rip Blu-rays, get the BD drive, otherwise just stick with the DVD drive. There's no other compelling reason to get a BD-ROM drive on a PC.
Ram, could take the 16 gigs from my current machine, buy new ram? or get 32 gigs which could be stupid overkill, not sure
Reusing RAM is only possible if your current system uses DDR4, so keep that in mind.
16GB is still fine for most stuff, though I've been recommending 32GB more and more lately for the sake of future-proofing. That's always something that you can expand later on, though, so don't stress about it too much.
GPU, pretty lost on this one, under $300 would be nice unless I can see reason to spend more, in that case under $400 might be doable
This one got a bit easier over the past few months.
I'd recommend the RTX 2060 (https://www.amazon.com/MSI-GeForce-RTX-2060-VENTUS/dp/B07MC23VS4). Its performance sits between the GTX 1070 and the GTX 1080, costs around $360, and includes the super hyped RTX feature set for when more games start taking advantage of that.
Alternatively, if you want to save quite a bit and get something between the 1060 and 1070, the 1660 is an good option at $220 (https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GeForce-Graphics-Windforce-Gv-N1660OC-6GD/dp/B07P76G428).
There's a 1660 Ti at $280, but after looking at the benchmarks it just doesn't seem worth it to me. The 1660 Ti is in an awkward place between the 1660 and the 2060, as it doesn't really offer enough over the normal 1660 when it comes to 1080p gaming yet doesn't quite have the same chops as the 2060 when it comes to 1440p performance. Plus, it obviously doesn't have the RTX feature set that the newer generation card has.
tl;dr 1060 for $220 if you want to keep the cost down (https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GeForce-Graphics-Windforce-Gv-N1660OC-6GD/dp/B07P76G428) or the RTX 2060 for $360 if you want to get higher fps's and do some future proofing (https://www.amazon.com/MSI-GeForce-RTX-2060-VENTUS/dp/B07MC23VS4).
OS, I just buy win10 from amazon and its easy peazy? or is there a better way? I see some for $85, and some for $100, but they say the same win10 home OEM. I don't quite understand. Should a user like myself even consider pro?
The main feature of Pro that would directly impact you is that it gives you more control over Windows updates. Not infinite control like 8.1 and under, but it allows you to defer updates for up to a year. I tend to use that feature because it seems like Microsoft gets the update launch window wrong more often than it gets it right, and I was tired of getting stung (plus there's the fact that the infamous bug from when 1809 launched that would cause your documents directory to be deleted under circumstances would have triggered on my machine if I'd installed it when it shipped).
One feature that may impact you is that Pro also lets you control your system via remote desktop. The amount of use you'd get out of that is, of course, dependent on you. :)
That being said, given the stability of Windows 10 thus far, I would highly recommend going to Pro if it isn't much more just so you can defer feature updates for a month or so until they get the kinks out.
As far as OEM vs. retail, it's all a matter of how the license is worded. OEM licenses are intended to be moved along with the machine, and are indicated by the stickers that Dell and friends slap on the case. Retail licenses are licensed to a person and are designed to be moved between machines. In practice, for your personal machine, it doesn't really matter. FWIW, I'm using an OEM license for my system right now.
tl;dr this is my recommendation (https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Pro-System-Builder/dp/B00ZSHDJ4O)
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Well the sonbitch is up and running... And I'm typing this on a phone... because I forget my password for this site and I am too tired to email a new password...
Speaking of, I've been off computers for over a year it seems... You need to make an account for goddamn everything now a days and it's MANDATORY. I couldn't install win10 without an account, I couldn't even install my goddamn Nvidia drivers without a mandatory account. The fuck is this world coming to? I don't want to juggle a notepad with 2,000 different passwords.
Either way more details later, I'm tired, and my setup is...to put it lightly temporary enough to see that the machine works, and get drivers and other things installed.
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Well the sonbitch is up and running...
[size=36]\o/[/size]
I couldn't even install my goddamn Nvidia drivers without a mandatory account.
The NVIDIA drivers doesn't require an account. That GeForce Experience (i.e. the driver autoupdater, which I think is still an optional package) does, but if you update the drivers manually you shouldn't have to sign in.
The fuck is this world coming to? I don't want to juggle a notepad with 2,000 different passwords.
I just gave up and started using LastPass a bunch of years ago. I would have preferred something decentralized like KeePass, but I needed something that wouldn't be an absolute PITA to sync to an immeasurable number of devices. I have it running across Windows, Linux, macOS, and iOS devices (and I used the Android version a bit when I still had a Nexus 9) and it's made my life way easier overall.
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Most of my passwords are linked to my google account because I'm too damn lazy to do anything else. I had keepass set up for a while, but that became too much of a PITA.
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What did I miss, ended up with the RTX 2060, and got 32 gigs ram. Took a few days but I have it setup in my living room, fairly comfortable using it, although my keyboard is a bit too short of a cable....no issue since im getting a cheap mech tomorrow to replace it.
Do want a new monitor since this 24 inch is a bit too small to read comfortably from as far away from it as I am, but it's functional for now.
Had a few issues so far, nothing MAJOR, but some annoying. mouse/kb turning on my pc when it's off, an issue if the cat steps on it, fixed that. windows not wanting to boot because my boot stuff isnt ordered correctly, fixed that...once, had a windows update which made it come back, fixed it again (i honestly dont know what i did both times, but i did something in the boot part of my bios).
Some games in other resolutions straight up break my pc, AND monitor. Diablo III did this, but the geforce thing autoset it to 4k for some reason and it fixed it somehow. Street fighter 4 did the same thing, only I havent figured out how to fix it yet. Literally breaks everything, my monitor goes black, and CANT POWER OFF, I literally have to unplug the monitor and re plug it back in, and it persists after a system restart. The game works, but as soon as I try to change the resolution TO 1080p, breaks, and the same thing happens if I alt tab, breaks.
Tried civ 6, works fine, bought DOOM, and tried streaming it. Ultra 1080p (I don't have a 1440p monitor....YET!) works like butter, runs like an absolute dream, and my stream feedback (and looking at archive myself) my internet is good enough to show a good quality image at 60fps (at least I assume 60, since that's what my obs is set to), so im happy about that. Only played about an hour to test it, but im very pleased with DOOM. AND THE BEST PART IS PLAYING ON A RECLINER, even with my ghetto ass keyboard in my lap, mouse on the armrest setup, pretty comfortable. Getting a lap desk and a tenkeyless keyboard, so reporting later on how that works when gear arrives.
And figured out my password here so actually have the luxury of typing on a real ass keyboard over some stupid mobile device.
Besides a few annoying issues, and not being used to being on a computer at all anymore, I'm pretty happy with how it's turned out. Not to mention my typing speed hasn't seem to degrade at all, save for my fingers getting tired, but that'll go away with time.
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Nice stuff, other than the shit breaking part anyway.
Sounds like a pretty sweet setup TBH.
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Some games in other resolutions straight up break my pc, AND monitor. Diablo III did this, but the geforce thing autoset it to 4k for some reason and it fixed it somehow. Street fighter 4 did the same thing, only I havent figured out how to fix it yet. Literally breaks everything, my monitor goes black, and CANT POWER OFF, I literally have to unplug the monitor and re plug it back in, and it persists after a system restart. The game works, but as soon as I try to change the resolution TO 1080p, breaks, and the same thing happens if I alt tab, breaks.
That's really weird. I've had one of my monitors at work (a Dell P2214H) "crash" like that before, but it's always really rare and really inconsistent. It might be a dud.
Only played about an hour to test it, but im very pleased with DOOM. AND THE BEST PART IS PLAYING ON A RECLINER, even with my ghetto ass keyboard in my lap, mouse on the armrest setup, pretty comfortable.
I'm planning to move my PC into an office for functional purposes, but after I do that I know I'm going to miss the recliner bit. I might hook my Steam Link up to my TV just so that I can can still do that (Steam in-home streaming is very good—I played Saint's Row 4 in its entirety using it). And yeah, my run of DOOM 2016 was done with an UHDTV, lights off, and my sound system cranked. Metal as fuck. I plan to do the same thing with Eternal when it comes out.
I've also found that the recliner setup works well for Elite: Dangerous. I designed a HOTAS mount (https://spectere.net/forums/index.php/topic,1917.msg42417.html#msg42417) for my recliner, so whenever I decide to play that I get my X56 set up, strap on the Rift, and set up my recliner to roughly the same angle that the in-game pilot does. It ends up being pretty immersive.
And figured out my password here so actually have the luxury of typing on a real ass keyboard over some stupid mobile device.
I mean, technically you can hook a USB/Bluetooth keyboard up to a phone. I'm sure that would be a great experience. ;)
Besides a few annoying issues, and not being used to being on a computer at all anymore, I'm pretty happy with how it's turned out. Not to mention my typing speed hasn't seem to degrade at all, save for my fingers getting tired, but that'll go away with time.
Glad to hear it! ;D
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I'm in monitor hell now. Currently using an old 24inch asus 60hz 1080p thing. IT WORKS FINE, but im a bit too far away from my monitor, and, reading text is challenging, including games ive been playing not called DOOM (DOOM is perfectly fine from any range because DOOM IS FANTASTIC).
So, my specs. ryzen 2700, rtx 2060, 32 gigs ram
I want a 32 inch monitor, because I'm not sure if 27 inches would be big enough from this far away. I'm about ~6 feet away from my monitor, and in my opinion, it's a bit too close for my 42 inch tv, but I'd wager a 32 inch monitor would be fine.
Problem is now all the kids want high refresh rates ALONG WITH low latency and the newer resolutions, and I found out that the difference between a 60hz and 144hz monitor same size same resoulution, typically over $100-150 more. And it doesnt make matters any easier with curved displays (which I could probably deal with if I got a good deal, but I don't want a curved display) and dead pixels and whatever other wonkey problems displays get, it's making clicking the buy button scarey. Those dead pixel scares aren't just "ohh it'll never happen to me" because it's happened to me. First new monitor I got in my life, half the entire monitor dead pixels, second one (a samsung) few dead pixels that were annoying to deal with, third one (another samsung...) bad capacitor and I didn't have the soldering skills to repair it (easy fix, if you are half compitent with soldering, of which i wasnt, and still am not, i'll learn some day), and this asus monitor which is perfectly fine, albeit with edge glow and some blurry text, both of which I am more than used to.
tl;dr, mandatory need 32inch, 144hz (i wanna see what the fuss is about, but if i drop it...could save a lot of money), optional but desired 1440p, and a pricepoint of at least under $330 (cheapest I've found em)
Found if I sacrifice 1440p, I really only save like $30-40 depending on brand, but if I sacrifice 144hz in favor of 60 or 75, I could get a $200 monitor. It's tough, I don't really know what to go with at this point, but I want one soon, because my eyes strain reading text at this range, and I cant get closer because, #reclinerpc
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With monitors you generally get what you pay for, unfortunately, whether it's viewing angles, color rendition, the inclusion of adaptive sync (FreeSync/G-Sync, i.e. the ability to natively render at, say, 99hz on a 144hz panel and still maintain sync, instead of dropping to 72hz with vsync or putting up with tearing), warranty, and/or pixel transition time (not necessarily refresh rate--you can have a display that can technically do 144hz but the pixels can't go from white to black in the requisite ~7ms).
I did find an LG at the $350 price point that hits all of the points (32"—31.5" viewable, lol—1440p, 144hz, no curve) and also includes FreeSync support: LG 32GK650F-B (https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16824025915)
As far as 60hz vs 144hz, it definitely makes a difference. Weird as it may sound, whenever I get in the mood to play Super Hexagon I play it exclusively on my iPad Pro because playing it on its 120hz display is legitimately a superior experience to playing it on any of my PCs. Even silly things like mouse pointer movements feel downright sluggish when you go from 144hz to 60hz.
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Yeah, I'll second the high refresh rate making a difference. I'm running 1440p 144hz (actually, I've got it OC'd to 165) and everything is just smooth as butter.
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HHV3LR2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
seems to hit all the notes, literally salivating all shift till I got home to this bad boy. Didn't want curved, but for the price, it's fine.
Will probably report later after some use, but this thing is hueg, never had a monitor this big in my life.
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Computer more or less runs fine, although that day 1 issue has crept up again.
New monitor, new game.
Dawn of War II, boot up, it's in an off resolution, works totally fine....alt tab, monitor dies.
Not, monitor turns black, or turns off, monitor dies. Persists after a system reboot, monitor is black unless I physically pull the power and re insert power. To be greeted by some windows boot issue requiring me to go into the boot menu of bios and override whatever.
I beat doom fine, I can play ff14 fine, diablo 3 had that monitor killing issue solved by changing resolution in nvidia menu first, but now Dawn of War II. I get not being able to display something, but killing my display outright, PAST POWERING DOWN MY MACHINE, I've never seen this before, and my google fu has yet to find me a solution.
Any ideas? It aint graphics drivers because that's the first thing I update upon a fresh boot, I know that for a fact.
*edit*
https://steamcommunity.com/app/20900/discussions/0/492379159707383210/
I launched game from folder, and it worked? But I also "optimize all games" from the nvidia thing, and it could have changed to my native 1440p resolution before boot? which wouldn't make sense because despite having the steam location for dawn of war 2 in my nvidia search, the game doesn't show up in my games list, so maybe the application is just bugged for displaying stuff I have yet still optimizes it?
I dont know, sf4 is still shot, but this one works, for now. Still don't know about that boot issue, easy solution, but feels like it randomly comes up on me, requiring a hitting of the restart button, mashing f2, and loading from bios.
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Ok, that's definitely a new one for me. Never heard of something that messes the monitor up enough to persist past a reboot and require a power cycle on the monitor like that.
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NEKROOOO
So I haven't "fixed" the problem, more just figured out what caused it and sidestepped it.
I don't think I needed to reboot my machine, just power cycle the monitor. Cause SEEMS to be going from 144hz, booting up a game that doesn't support it which will flip to 60hz (again, im not expert, just assuming based on my observations), and that switch crashes my monitor.
When I went from 60 to 144hz, monitor acted fine. But when I switch back in the settings from 144hz to 60hz, crash. Power cycle, just keep the damn thing at 60hz, and I can play all my games, including whatever I mentioned in this thread just fine.
144hz looks good, but not good enough to warrant monitor crashes. Also, again, it looks good, but it doesn't look THAT good. Overrated in my opinion, nice to have, but overrated.
Still have yet to fix my boot problem...so mashing delete to manually boot from bios every time I boot it is.
ANd....while im here. I bought a usb/sata cable to grab some data off some old hdds. Works fine on my old kingston ssd, plug and play (minus needing permission to access my own shit, but thats another topic), but both of my western digital HDD's won't even show up as having any data, 0 bytes, cannot access drives, blablabla. Whenever I'm not lazy I might try connecting the drives to my mobo directly, because i know they work, and i know the cable works, as does the usb port i was using. Going to be another one of those pc issues that isn't a huge deal, but i spend a few minutes every now and then trying to fix.
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My guess would be that the cable is only delivering 3.3V and 5V to the hard drives, and the drives that aren't working with it require the 12V pins to be livened. If the cable only has a USB lead and no dedicated power supply, that's definitely going to be the case (USB only supplies 5V, and it's far cheaper/easier to step down than to step up). Basically, in this situation, the drive's controller would be receiving power and functioning normally, but since the motor wouldn't be capable of spinning up it wouldn't be able to get any data from the platters.