The Chatterbox > Computing

Getting something to compute with

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vladgd:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HHV3LR2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

seems to hit all the notes, literally salivating all shift till I got home to this bad boy. Didn't want curved, but for the price, it's fine.

Will probably report later after some use, but this thing is hueg, never had a monitor this big in my life.

vladgd:
Computer more or less runs fine, although that day 1 issue has crept up again.

New monitor, new game.

Dawn of War II, boot up, it's in an off resolution, works totally fine....alt tab, monitor dies.

Not, monitor turns black, or turns off, monitor dies. Persists after a system reboot, monitor is black unless I physically pull the power and re insert power. To be greeted by some windows boot issue requiring me to go into the boot menu of bios and override whatever.

I beat doom fine, I can play ff14 fine, diablo 3 had that monitor killing issue solved by changing resolution in nvidia menu first, but now Dawn of War II. I get not being able to display something, but killing my display outright, PAST POWERING DOWN MY MACHINE, I've never seen this before, and my google fu has yet to find me a solution.

Any ideas? It aint graphics drivers because that's the first thing I update upon a fresh boot, I know that for a fact.

*edit*

https://steamcommunity.com/app/20900/discussions/0/492379159707383210/

I launched game from folder, and it worked? But I also "optimize all games" from the nvidia thing, and it could have changed to my native 1440p resolution before boot? which wouldn't make sense because despite having the steam location for dawn of war 2 in my nvidia search, the game doesn't show up in my games list, so maybe the application is just bugged for displaying stuff I have yet still optimizes it?

I dont know, sf4 is still shot, but this one works, for now. Still don't know about that boot issue, easy solution, but feels like it randomly comes up on me, requiring a hitting of the restart button, mashing f2, and loading from bios.

Bobbias:
Ok, that's definitely a new one for me. Never heard of something that messes the monitor up enough to persist past a reboot and require a power cycle on the monitor like that.

vladgd:
NEKROOOO

So I haven't "fixed" the problem, more just figured out what caused it and sidestepped it.

I don't think I needed to reboot my machine, just power cycle the monitor. Cause SEEMS to be going from 144hz, booting up a game that doesn't support it which will flip to 60hz (again, im not expert, just assuming based on my observations), and that switch crashes my monitor.

When I went from 60 to 144hz, monitor acted fine. But when I switch back in the settings from 144hz to 60hz, crash. Power cycle, just keep the damn thing at 60hz, and I can play all my games, including whatever I mentioned in this thread just fine.

144hz looks good, but not good enough to warrant monitor crashes. Also, again, it looks good, but it doesn't look THAT good. Overrated in my opinion, nice to have, but overrated.

Still have yet to fix my boot problem...so mashing delete to manually boot from bios every time I boot it is.

ANd....while im here. I bought a usb/sata cable to grab some data off some old hdds. Works fine on my old kingston ssd, plug and play (minus needing permission to access my own shit, but thats another topic), but both of my western digital HDD's won't even show up as having any data, 0 bytes, cannot access drives, blablabla. Whenever I'm not lazy I might try connecting the drives to my mobo directly, because i know they work, and i know the cable works, as does the usb port i was using. Going to be another one of those pc issues that isn't a huge deal, but i spend a few minutes every now and then trying to fix.

Spectere:
My guess would be that the cable is only delivering 3.3V and 5V to the hard drives, and the drives that aren't working with it require the 12V pins to be livened. If the cable only has a USB lead and no dedicated power supply, that's definitely going to be the case (USB only supplies 5V, and it's far cheaper/easier to step down than to step up). Basically, in this situation, the drive's controller would be receiving power and functioning normally, but since the motor wouldn't be capable of spinning up it wouldn't be able to get any data from the platters.

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